The lift and freshness of tart red cherry on this wine's nose has a rare hint of raspberry. The palate comes in with energetic, glossy flow, still slightly impeded by fine and youthful tannins on the concentrated, toned body. But freshness creates the drive and propels that depth of flavor.

Another success is the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre Monopole (Maison Louis Jadot), offering up aromas of cassis, red plums, baking chocolate and earthy forest floor. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with good concentration, lively acids and chalky tannins.

The 2018 Volnay Clos de la Barre 1er Cru has a precise, focused bouquet of well-defined black and red fruit mixed with cedar and light minty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite rounded and smooth in texture. Good depth toward the finish, but I was expecting a little more complexity and mineralité.