Tighter and better balanced than the Drouhins' Les Embazées premier cru in 2017, this is entirely sourced from the prestigious Laguiche holdings. It has a beautifully judged combination of leesy texture, aromatic spices and 30% new wood, finishing with bright, refreshing acidity. Drinking window 2020-2027.

A very attractive, complex nose with a bright array of lemons and white peaches, as well as flinty and stony nuances. The palate delivers weight and freshness. Really attractive and lithe with a vibrant array of limes and young nectarines at the finish. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche wafts from the glass with a lovely bouquet of pretty orchard fruit, pastry cream, dried white flowers, honeycomb and a nutty framing of new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, pure and satiny, with good depth and concentration at the core, tangy balancing acids and a beautifully defined finish. This is dependably among the finest whites in the Drouhin cellar, and this year's rendition is no exception.

Bright yellow-green. High-pitched aromas of yellow peach, minerals, anise and spices are complemented by deeper soil tones. Fully ripe and concentrated but classically dry, conveying a creamy glyceral quality to its yellow fruit flavors. These millerandé vines give less juice, noted Véronique Drouhin, and the result in 2017 appears to have been higher alcohol and higher acidity. The lively finish features rising length.

A pungent nose is composed of petrol, wood and a touch of unabsorbed sulfur that shouldn't last. Otherwise the exceptionally rich, enveloping and powerful medium weight plus flavors abound with sappy dry extract that coats the palate and buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the delicious, dry and focused finale. This isn't an elegant wine but the complexity is impressive and in any event, refinement isn't why one buys Morgeot. *Burghound Sweet Spot Outstanding!*