Bottled three weeks before my visit, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Chante le Merle Vieilles Vignes is nevertheless impressive. Black raspberries are accented by hints of blood orange, cocoa and anise on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and packed with material, it's long and velvety on the finish, picking up notes of salted licorice. It's a terrific, age-worthy effort that should still be drinking well in 2035.

Ripe and warm in feel, with creamed raspberry, plum and blackberry fruit flavors gliding through, underscored by subtle garrigue, shiso leaf and rooibos tea notes. The plush finish lets an iron accent peek in. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Drink now through 2035. 100 cases imported.